Koh Phangan

Contents of this article10 sections

1. Getting there
2. Getting around the island
3. The beaches around the island
4. Which beach suits you
5. Parties and quiet evenings
6. Markets and food
7. Massage, yoga and wellness
8. Excursions and sights
9. Tips for travellers over 50
10. Best time to travel

Koh Phangan lies north of Koh Samui in the Gulf of Thailand, about 17 kilometres across the water. The island covers 168 square kilometres and is very hilly, with flat ground almost only on the west coast. It is known for the Full Moon Party, held once a month on Haad Rin beach. The rest of the island is surprisingly quiet: sparsely built-up bays, waterfalls in the interior and fishing villages. I think Koh Phangan is lovely for people over 50 precisely when you avoid the full moon nights.

Roughly speaking, every coast has its own character. The west is easy to reach, with calm water and sunsets. The east has beautiful sand but poorer roads. The north is the best for snorkelling, and in the south almost everything depends on the tides. Below I go through the beaches one by one.

Getting there

Almost everyone comes via Koh Samui. The Lomprayah catamarans take 20 to 30 minutes from Maenam or Bangrak pier to Thong Sala, the port of Koh Phangan. Tickets at the counter cost 300 to 350 baht. Seatran sails from Bangrak, Songserm from Nathon, and the Raja car ferry from Lipa Noi is the cheapest at around 150 baht, but takes one to one and a half hours. The car ferry also keeps running when the fast boats are cancelled because of high waves.

If you are heading for Haad Rin, you can take the wooden boat Haad Rin Queen from Big Buddha pier on Samui. It docks right at Haad Rin, and you buy the tickets in cash at the pier.

From the mainland, you travel from Surat Thani to the port of Donsak. From there the car ferry takes about two and a half hours to Thong Sala. In the high season from December to April, you should book your flight at least one to two days ahead.

Getting around the island

There is no Grab or Bolt on Koh Phangan, as the island is not one of their service areas. From the port of Thong Sala, shared taxis (songthaews) run to the beaches. That costs 100 to 200 baht per person, more at night and on party nights. A private taxi costs 200 to 600 baht, depending on the distance. There are no meters, so agree the price beforehand.

By scooter, it takes about 20 minutes from Thong Sala to Srithanu, 25 to Haad Rin and 30 to Chaloklum. The route to Thong Nai Pan is the most difficult on the island.

The beaches around the island

Haad Rin

Haad Rin in the southeast consists of two beaches. The Full Moon Party takes place on Haad Rin Nok, the Sunrise Beach, and the sand is lovely. On Haad Rin Nai on the other side, the Sunset Beach, it is quieter, and this is where the Haad Rin Queen docks. In the nights around the full moon Haad Rin is loud and crowded, otherwise it is a perfectly ordinary beach town. Ten minutes away on foot lies Leela Beach, with a completely different, quiet atmosphere.

Thong Nai Pan

In the northeast lie the two half-moon bays of Ao Thong Nai Pan, one of the island’s main sights and a good swimming beach. There are no parties here, but small resorts and peace and quiet. The road there is steep and winding. It has improved, but is still demanding.

Bottle Beach

Bottle Beach (Haad Khuad) on the north coast has no road. You get there by longtail boat from Chaloklum. The boats run on demand, without a fixed timetable, and when you get off you wade through the shallow water. In rough seas the return trip is not safe. Bring cash.

Chaloklum

The fishing village on the north coast is more of a harbour than a swimming beach. Here you can see how the island’s coconut farmers and fishermen live, and get fresh, cheap fish. The Chao Mae Kuan Im shrine stands nearby.

Mae Haad and Koh Ma

In the northwest lies Mae Haad, with the small island of Koh Ma in front of it. At low tide you can walk across a sandbar, so check the tides beforehand. The snorkelling from the beach is particularly good here.

Haad Salad and Haad Yao

On the northwest coast there are two beautiful swimming beaches. Haad Salad is a sheltered, shallow and calm bay with a reef at its northern end. Haad Yao is a long beach with clear water and a reef off the coast.

Srithanu and the west coast

The island’s yoga scene has settled in Srithanu on the west coast, with plenty of classes, cafés and vegetarian restaurants. The beach is flat, and at low tide you have to walk a long way out to reach the water. It is better for the sunset than for swimming. It is similar further south at Haad Chao Phao.

Thong Sala and the south

Thong Sala is the port and the most practical corner of the island, with markets, supermarkets and a hospital. The beaches in the south around Baan Tai and Baan Kai are like mudflats at low tide. They are good for a sunset drink, but not really for swimming.

East coast

On the east coast there are secluded bays such as Haad Tien and Haad Yuan. You can usually only get there by longtail boat from Haad Rin. A steep road, on the other hand, leads to the Than Sadet waterfall.

Which beach suits you

If you want peace and good swimming water, stay in Thong Nai Pan, but accept the steep road. Easier to reach and still quiet are Haad Salad and Haad Yao in the northwest. If you like yoga and cafés, stay in Srithanu. In Thong Sala you have short distances to the port, markets and hospital. I would only visit Haad Rin during the day, unless you want to go to the party.

Parties and quiet evenings

The Full Moon Party on Haad Rin Nok is the biggest event on the island. The next dates are 27 October, 24 November, 24 December and the New Year’s Eve party on 31 December 2026. The dates sometimes shift because of Buddhist holidays. Admission costs 200 baht, and you pay at the entrance. After sunset the beach fills up, and it is busiest late at night. It usually ends around 6 am. Wear sturdy shoes, as there is broken glass in the sand.

There is also the Half Moon Festival in the forest near Baan Tai, which is for ages 20 and over and much more expensive: 2,500 baht at the door.

Quiet evenings are the norm on Koh Phangan. You watch the sunset on the west coast and then go to the market in Thong Sala.

Markets and food

The night market in Thong Sala, also called Phantip Market, is open every day from about 4 pm or 5 pm until around 10 pm. It is busiest between 7 pm and 9 pm, and relaxed before 6:30 pm. Thai dishes there cost 50 to 100 baht, a grilled pork skewer 10 to 15 baht, mango with sticky rice 50 to 60 baht (as of June 2026). Payment is almost only in cash.

On Saturdays there is also the Walking Street in Thong Sala, from 4 pm to 10 pm, with food, clothing and crafts. The best place to eat fresh fish is Chaloklum.

Massage, yoga and wellness

Massages are available on every beach. An hour of Thai massage costs 400 to 600 baht, a foot massage 250 to 350 baht (as of July 2026). In simple shops you often pay less.

The yoga scene is almost entirely in Srithanu. A single class costs from 400 baht. Above Baan Tai lies the meditation temple Wat Khao Tham, which offers silent retreats on a donation basis.

Excursions and sights

Than Sadet waterfall

It lies in a national park on the east coast. Four kings of the Chakri dynasty carved their names into a rock here, and King Chulalongkorn visited as many as 14 times. The road there is steep, so it is better to take a taxi or a tour. The waterfall carries the most water after rain.

Phaeng waterfall and viewpoints

The Phaeng waterfall lies in the national park in the middle of the island. From there a shady path leads up in 30 to 45 minutes to a viewpoint above the waterfall. In the dry season the waterfall is just a trickle. The highest mountain on the island is Khao Ra at 627 metres. You need half a day for it, and the path is steep and hard to find in places, so a guide is a good idea.

Snorkelling and diving

Hin Bai and Samran are among the popular dive sites, with colourful corals, clownfish and parrotfish. Many boats also run day trips to Koh Tao.

Ang Thong Marine National Park

Boats also run from Koh Phangan to the Ang Thong Marine National Park with its 42 islands. Admission costs 300 baht. As a rule the park is closed from 1 November to about 15 December.

Tips for travellers over 50

Check the Full Moon Party calendar before you book. Around the full moon the ferries are full and the accommodation in Haad Rin is more expensive. If you want peace and quiet, plan your arrival a week later.

Do not rent a scooter if you do not know the island’s roads. Some are steep, some are unpaved and full of potholes. Sand on the road is the biggest danger. Thailand has a very high number of fatal road accidents, and most of the victims are on two wheels. I would take shared taxis or a taxi.

The state hospital near Thong Sala has an emergency department open around the clock. There is also the Phangan International Hospital of the Bangkok Hospital group in Baan Tai. Serious cases are taken to Koh Samui or Surat Thani. There is no pharmacy that is open around the clock.

If you do go to the party: there are pickpockets in the crowd. Keep your phone and money in a bag worn close to your body. At the Full Moon Party there have been several fatal incidents and assaults on tourists who were under the influence of drugs or alcohol. Do not accept drinks from strangers. Thailand does not take drugs lightly, and even small amounts lead to long prison sentences.

It is best to go to the waterfalls in the morning and in sturdy shoes, as the paths over rocks can be slippery. Around midday it is too hot for hiking.

Best time to travel

Koh Phangan is close to Koh Samui and therefore has the same weather. According to the long-term figures from the Koh Samui weather station, October to December are the wettest months, with November the wettest of all. October to January is monsoon season, and other months suit a beach holiday better. During this time the fast boats are also cancelled more often. From February to September it usually rains only moderately. You can see what it looks like month by month on the weather page for Koh Phangan.

What you need before you fly is covered in Entering Thailand in 2026. For a rough idea of what a day there costs, see Cost of Thailand per day.

Comparison

Not sure whether this place is the right one? Here are the differences side by side:

• Koh Samui or Koh PhanganBest time to visit, getting there and character
• Koh Tao or Koh PhanganBest time to visit, getting there and character

Continuing by ferry? In the island hopping planner you can see which boats leave from Koh Phangan, how long they take and what they cost.